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    The Retro Era

    The Retro Era

    Posted by Lane Griffith ·

    Retro Era:

    Dates 1939-1950

    Concluding World War II, the style of this era is heavenly inspired by the war and its victory. Many elements from the Art Deco reign are carried through. The symmetrical, geometric designs become bolder and amplified through the time. Allowing this era to be filled with large colorful gemstones, yellow gold, platinum, and white gold. With metal shortages on the rise white gold became more dominate in the jewelry world. With gemstones, diamonds, and metals difficult to come by recycling older unused pieces becomes the trend. Giving worn pieces new life allowed a new look to be created without taking any needed materials from our soldiers. Convertible pieces like necklaces or brooches, also take the spotlight these pieces allowed a variety of looks without the abundant use if materials. Metals were not the only thing effected by the war gemstones and diamonds were troublesome to come by as well. This made it so smaller gems were used in abundance, the pave style settings increased in popularity. Along with dome shaped rings, these domes would be encrusted in small vibrant gems often making floral or geometric shapes. These styles may not be as blingy as previous eras, but the pave settings allowed for big sparkle with the materials available. This eleven-year span is a great combination of past eras, full of vibrant colors and detailed design. Many of these styles are still used today.

     

     

     

     

     

    The Art Deco Era

    The Art Deco Era

    Posted by Lane Griffith ·

    Art Deco Era:

    1920 – 1945

    Emerging at the conclusion of World War 1, this is one of the most iconic and most recreated of the eras. The design aesthetic drastically shifted, from the nature-based beginning eras to angular, geometric, and architectural inspiring. This era was clean cut and bold, die-struck filigree was then hand finished, intricate symmetrical basket style rings with breathtaking open work, and lavalier necklaces are predominately worn. The open work and filigree details were ideal effects that allowed metal to be used more sparingly. Giving the pieces of this time a lighter, less bulky feel. Popular items include dinner and cocktail rings, octagonal/hexagonal settings, stepped shoulders, filigree linked bracelets, pearls, and lavalier necklaces. Typically crafted in white gold, platinum (although costly), camphor glass or chromium plated metals. Diamond, aquamarine, pearl, jade, onyx, and topaz are prevalent in these creations, thanks to technology advances synthetic sapphires and rubies are well used in this era as well. Along with creating gems, advances in gem cutting were also achieved. Baguette, brilliant cut, fancy cuts like emerald and Asscher cuts come into the spotlight, while still utilizing old European cut and cabochon. This span of time is known for the angular, symmetrical designs, utilizing machines to create filigree details and pops of bold color (created or natural), catching the attention of those around the wearer.

    The Georgian Era

    The Georgian Era

    Posted by Lane Griffith ·

    Georgian Era: 1714-1837

    This era spanned for 120 years, through King George I and ending at King George IV. Given the dates of this era, the tools used were primitive. Making the pieces fragile, and less likely to stand the test of time, most high-end specimens are in museums most in desperate need of repair. Making Georgian era jewelry a true treasure. This era has a dark, moody aesthetic made up of pearls, sapphires, foil-backed diamonds, rubies, garnet, topaz, glass, and paste. Common cuts for this time are unlike what we see today. Most common are old mine cuts, single cuts, antique cushion cuts and rose cuts. These are cuts made by hand, using candle or sunlight. Foil-backing gems was assumed to brighten them along with intensifying the color. With machines in short supply during this time, jewelry was hand formed, hand carved and handset. An art that has evolved over time, with these hand done creations makers marks or assay stamps are uncommon and nearly nonexistent (assay marks are enforced in the 1900’s). Metals were more brittle in turn harder to manipulate, typical materials used are 18K yellow gold and silver.

                    Popular motifs from this era are flowers, crescents, bows, and foliage incorporating shapes like the navette and ovals to interpret these beautiful designs. The Georgian era is most known for its mourning pieces. Beautifully made pieces of jewelry that are made to commemorate a loved one. Typically made to display a lock of hair, a piece of ribbon, fabric or even a portrait. These mourning pieces were held dear, and the perfect way to preserve memories. Unfortunately, Georgian jewelry like the mourning pieces are harder and harder to come by. This era is just the start of the progress made jewelry manufacturing. Encouraging advances to continue through the decades.